RTC 2009: 7th and 8th December

Prologue:

So here goes: (with apologies to Tennessee Ernie Ford!)

(original words) 

You walk Round the Corner, and whaddaya gain?

Another Year Older and a lot more Pain!

St. Peter don't you call us 'cause we can't go,

We all owe dough to Myriam LO!!

   

The weather forecasts for the 2009 RTC, which was held later than normal to enable as much training as possible, as well as to take advantage of optimum tides for the beach crossings, varied from horrible to hopeful in the week before. In the event, it started off dry and mild, but very overcast, and not enough significant rain had fallen in the preceding days to make the early ascents and descents uncomfortable. In fact the first drizzle didn't start until we were descending to the long beach leading to Cordoama and the much needed coffee at Castelejo. The rain continued sporadically and reached a peak as we headed towards the lunch stop at the Coastguard House and then to Torre de Aspe. Then it cleared and we were able to sit outside Pastelaria Baia for our traditional post-walk drinks, on arrival in Sagres, unlike in 2008 when it was clear and sunny but much colder.

        The second day was back to normal with sun and clear skies for most of the day, and a surprisingly warm 18ºC, until the end at Luz where it was cooler, but not so much as to drive us inside.

Another regular feature of the RTC, along with the photo on the Quinta steps and the one sitting on the wall at Fort de Almadena, has been our habit of being selected by various dogs as suitable company for a walk! Last year we had one dog which attached itself to us around Burgau, and having arrived at Sagres, located us on the next morning and walked to Carrapateira.

   

This year we had a new dog on each day - one joined us before the descent to Praia de Barriga, which Myriam named 'Panda' (on the left) and 'Dusty' (right, having a well-earned rest.)

 

Panda abandoned us before the urbanised run in to Sagres with a better offer from one of a couple of Serra d'Estrela’s which were supposed to be guarding some corralled sheep and goats, but had broken free, and was dragging a heavy chain.

 

Dusty completed the course, and eventually followed us to the car park, but we had to leave him there. Hopefully, he will have found another group going back towards Sagres.

Day 1: Monday 7th December:- Carrapateira to Sagres

14 +2 start at Carrapateira

(Dinah took the photo)

  For the record, the walkers on the first day were: Chris, Myriam, Terry M., Yves, John H., Dina, Paul, John O', Rod, David, Gordon, Frank, Ian W., and Hilke.

Tiggy and Rosie made up the canine contingent.

The track from Carrapateira to Sagres (click to enlarge)

Day 1 Stats: 2009                                      2008              

Total Distance: 29.1 km.                                 28.8 km.

Moving Time: 6 hrs 16 min.                            6 hrs 38 min
Total Time: 7 hrs 45 min.                                 7 hrs 54 min
Moving Avg.: 4.6 km/hr.                                  4.3 km/hr
Overall Avg.: 3.8 km/hr.                                   3.6 km/hr 
Total Ascent: 718 m.                                           621 m.
Max Elevation: 163 m.                                       160 m.

You may note that we apparently climbed 97m. more this year than last. Hard to explain, but not as odd as the  200 m. less we climbed on Day 2!

     

The pick up at Luz was done with military precision, with all arriving by 0700 hrs, and we piled the rucksacks, overnight bags and ourselves into 5 cars driven by Jyll, Diane, Dinah, Hazel and Vitor, and made it to Carrapateira by 0730 hrs.

       The GPS was fired up, cameras cocked, and the photographic formalities were completed on a surprisingly mild morning, most wearing only light fleeces, except for Frank who was sporting serious Fell Walking gear.

Disrobing before the first climb out of Amado beach

 
The first ‘heart-starter’

 

Going over the top…..

 

The tricky zig-zag descent before the next beach was pretty much as before except the sand had piled up into the ‘V’ and made the last steps easier.

 
‘Do you need help or just a photo?

 

The early start at 0740 brought up the prospect of the tide not being far enough out to get round the next headland. With impeccable timing we were able to skip past in between waves although the ‘Seventh’ wave nearly caught the tail-enders.

Ready to dash for it

 

Just made it!

 

Hilke hits her rhythm

Single file only!

 

This saddle at the top of the narrow climbing path has always been a traditional spot to reassemble the group (and gather one’s breath) and pose for a photo.

 

The wild west coast cliffs – a totally different aspect from previous sunny walks with calmer seas. Photo by John H.

 

The photo does not do justice to this narrow goat path with a steep drop away to the sea.
 

Another spectacular coastal shot by David

 

Myriam captured this shot of the group against a steel gray sky. Evidently I am not as cold as some of the others after that climb!

 
‘Spot the Tilley’ competition!

 

Spectacular pillar on another steep ridge climb

 

As we were descending the ‘easy’ route down towards the start of the long beach walk to Castelejo, the weather forecast came true and we had an emergency stop to don raingear. Rod tries to look nonchalant with his double-ribbed parasol, but it proved less than effective when the winds started to swirl.

At last the long flat bit with a coffee at the end!  This gave our photographers a chance to exercise their art with some wonderfully atmospheric shots, quite unlike the clear shadow-filled shots of last year. This by John H.
 

Still raining

 

Stretching out as the front runners push to be first for coffee!

 

Well-waterproofed 

 

Aaah caffeine!

We reached the beach bar at Castelejo at about 1130 am., and the drizzle started to ease, though we sat inside to stay warm and dry off a bit. We were met by the support group, Antje and Hilary, Phil and Susan, who had some very nice biscuits to go with our coffee.

Though Chris had considered this to be an optional drop out point, he was going so well that even contemplating the last climb to the Coastguard House, he decided to stay the course.

 

The last climb of the day!

 

The rain has (temporarily) stopped and we gained height rapidly.

 

Moody view of Castelejo Beach and the north

 
60’s Rock Band re-united! 

 

Lunch in the lee of the Coastguard House. 

 

The Torre de Aspe was in low cloud and swirling drizzle

 

One and a half  hours later we were back in summer for the stroll in to Sagres

 

Reaching the outskirts of Sagres in the sun 

 

Now that wasn’t so bad!

 

Taking the medicine.

The first day’s walk ended well, in sunshine, and warm enough to sit outside Pastelaria Baia, unlike last year when it had been sunny all day, but cooler. We had made a very good overall time – perhaps thanks to the early part of the walk when the drizzly conditions kept us moving. Everyone appeared to be in good condition and ready for the evening’s festivities.



Evening Day 1- The Dinner at Vila Velha 

         In a departure from previous years, the pre-dinner drinks were held in Vila Velha, where the atmosphere was warmer, and there was no need to move too far to the tables. Monday was normally Lia’s night off, but she had opened especially for us, and we had a good attendance of the 14 walkers and another 11 supporters. These were Jyll, Mike, Antje, Hazel, Vitor, Dinah, Diane, Phil, Susan, Uli, and Hilary.
 

Myriam briefing Lia 

 

Uli and Hilke

 

Dina and Myriam in the pink!

 

Frank,  John O’ and Yves

An Englishman, and Irishman and a Frenchman went into a pub…..

A Frenchman,  an Irishman and an Englishman are talking together after some rigorous exercise.

'I'm so tired and thirsty,' moaned the Frenchman, 'I think I must have a glass of wine.'

'I'm so tired and thirsty,' murmured the Irishman, 'I think I must have a Guinness.'

'I'm so tired and thirsty,' muttered the Englishman, 'I think I must have diabetes.'

 

Ian W. and Vitor

 

Gordon, Susan, Phil and Hazel

 

Susan and Phil

 

Hazel in a generous mood! 

Uli and Diane

Frank and Jyll                                               Rod and Antje

Myriam wearing last year’s fashion 

A selection of 'bon viveurs'

The dinner was excellent, with some ravenous diners over-estimating their capacity (Guilty Your Honour!) and overdoing the delicious anti-pasti, hors d'oeuvres, couvert or appetisers! The fish course on it's own would have been a sufficiency but when the pork appeared I had to admit defeat and calculated with precision the exact quantity of wine it would take to lull me to sleep.
      Myriam appeared to have exhausted her camera battery, and I was already fearful of the amount of editing and selection I would have to do for this Blog, so John H. was virtually the sole photographer and nearly all of the foregoing are from his camera.
       Rod, as usual put the whole occasion in  perspective with a short and witty speech, and for once we were permitted to sit in our original seats all night, as Ian S. was not there to  attempt to rearrange the seating positions!
       I can't recall what time we eased off towards the Hotel after thanking Lia and her staff for their magnificent repast, but it didn't seem long before the alarm went off next to my ear, heralding the start of Day 2.

Day 2: Tuesday 8th December:-Sagres to Luz


       Still dark as we blearily made our way from The Navigator to Pastelaria Baia for our pre-ordered breakfasts.  The Baggage Teams had been up earlier and the cars were open for loading.  As I approached the Café with Rod, I saw a couple of walkers standing outside (you know who you were!) and I thought the worst - Sr. Emanuel and Maria José had failed to set their alarm clock and were not yet open - but I needn't have worried - the half asleep early arrivals had not been sufficiently awake to turn the door handle fully!

John H soon arrived with his 'Big One' and the record could start again!

 

Day 2 Stats:- 2009                                     2008

Total Distance: 26.9 km                               26.7

Moving time: 6 hrs 30 min.                      6 hrs 50 min

Total Time: 8 hrs 28 min.                         8 hrs 12 min

Moving Average: 4.1 km/hr                          3.9 km/hr

Overall Average: 3.2 km/hr                           3.2 km/hr

Total Ascent: 861 m.                                    1078 m.

Max Elevation: 83 m.                                     85 m.

New Feature:

Average age of walkers: 64.666 years (Source: Ask Myriam!) 

Somehow we managed to climb over 200 m. LESS than last year on this leg. Partially made up for the 97 m. more we did on Day 1!  Not sure how, but it couldn’t possibly be faulty technology, or the fact that we went in the opposite direction! Any suggestions please!

Day 2 Track

 

John warming up

 

The Breakfast Club including Sr. Emanuel, the owner.

Second day starters were as the first day except that Frank retired on the grounds that he had come to his senses, Ian W. had a recurrence of his earlier ‘snuffles’  and Hazel substituted as planned, and carried the torch for John – but not the camera

When John got the above photo back from the chemists, we noted a spooky phenomenon. Behind the group, apparently inside the bar,  a strange face loomed between Yves and Terry! Could this have been a ghost of RTC Past? Does anyone recognise a lost friend or a relative who is spiritually disturbed and unable to accept his fate peacefully?

The sun was rising with scattered clouds,at 0740 as we set off, but it was reasonably warm already and good prospects for the walk ahead.  After 8 RTC walks, the majority conclude that the leg from Sagres to Luz is the toughest, despite being a couple of Km shorter, and to do this as the second day makes it tougher still.
   However there is a school of thought that if you walk from Sagres to Carrapateira on the second day, then all the tough climbs come right at the end of the day when you are least motivated to bound up and down those longer hills.

     If there is an RTC 2010, then we will put it to a democratic vote – or how about from each end towards the middle?

 

First landmark – The Quinta

 

The traditional ‘Quinta steps’ photo

 

The plateau stage with a large herd of sheep and goats

 

Great shot by David of a breaker approaching the ‘Hippy’ beach 

 

Gordon leads the charge up the slope towards Ingrina

 

Arty view by Paul of Ingrina beach

 

Starting the descent towards Praia de Fornos

The ‘ovens’ can be seen at the far side of the beach under the ridge which we are destined to climb.

 

This miradouro has a tiled floor, wonderful views and apparently was built for wining and dining al fresco, by some acquaintances of Rod who own the land, but cannot build there!

Starting the climb out of Fornos requires a bit of scrambling and a head for heights, but the final views back to the beach are wonderful……….

 

….and the reward when right up the top is the sight of ‘The Disney House’, which seems to have augmented it’s wind turbine since last year!

 

Hazel celebrates surviving the climb.

Apparently John  told Hazel that the second day was easier, so that is why she chose to walk to Luz. This demonstrates the validity of seeking a second opinion!

 

Yellow sandstone (as opposed to grey sandstone and red sandstone!) We are getting spread out here!
  

The rearguard cautiously negotiate the ‘Wall of Death’ coming in to Salema. The vanguard are probably sitting down to coffee about now! Discipline must be enforced!

 

A welcome break

Salema, which the last of us reached just before 1 pm.,  is always a good spot for lunch where we can sit comfortably and gorge on our sandwiches with real coffee with the proprietor’s blessing. We were met by Phil and Susan, Vitor and John. Dina had been struggling with a rubbing boot, and changed to trainers here. Rod made some terse remarks about those in front being unsympathetic to the slower walkers behind.

 

Ready to move on from Cafe Solmar, Salema.

At Salema, Chris concluded that he had nothing more to prove and went for an early shower. Hazel was asked if she would like to join him (not in the shower) but she showed true grit and despite being tired, pressed on.
The next highlight was ‘The Ascent of Gordon’s Gully’.  Phil had already been Up the Gully with Susan, to achieve a FTF (First to Find’) of my new cache hidden  there on Sunday. I had reccied the Official Route through the gully some two weeks earlier and was delighted to note that the sea had helpfully pushed a vast quantity of sand up the beach to cover the slippery seaweed-strewn rocks which were exposed on that occasion

 
 

Up the Gully- with a smile!



Myriam, Dina and Rod pick their way to the top

That intrepid Snaparazzi, John H had outflanked us and reached Boca de Rio before us, hoping to get some action photos of the river crossing. Alas it was disappointingly low, and we crossed dryly at the seaward end.


Showing superb navigational skills, John then leapt in his car, and reached the Fort de Almadena before most of the walkers. Here he took this historic photo of the group sitting (as usual) on the historic wall of the Fort. Rosie was fed up with being photographed and stood on the wall behind Yves, so ‘Dusty’ seated himself at David’s feet and posed beautifully If you enlarge the photo and could see through Rod’s head you would be able to see the starting point for the day – or at least the Hotel Navigator.

 

Last year I pioneered a ‘more interesting’ route through the ‘boreens’ of Burgau, and the triumph was repeated in the reverse direction this year. This avoided going along the main road and then trying to force a way through the building sites to get back on the cliff tops.

 

Not far now!! 

 

These boxes have been finished since we came past last year, and David was sufficiently impressed to take this shot.

On the way in, John ambushed us by appearing from behind a bush at the end of The President’s Path. The ladies were surprised and I suspect they thought he was a ‘flasher’! But only with his camera!



Just before 4pm we make our triumphal entry into Luz. with a gala welcome by Dinah, Tina, Ingrid,  Alex, Marguerite, Hilary,  Ginny, Brian, Gail and Ian S., who had arrived complete with crutches and a quite unjustified thirst!

Another successful excursion round the most South-Westerly corner of Europe.  As I announced at dinner, the franchise is up for sale, particularly the joy of sifting through 457 photos, and compiling the Blog – during which I lost over an hours work when the Vox Blog I started deleted itself on a whim, and a later electricity failure at a crucial point on this blog when I lost 2 hours work!!


"Leaders don't inflict pain -- they share pain."   Depree, Max


"When we are young we take pains to be agreeable, and when we are old we take pains not to be disagreeable."    Unknown